How to take a photo for a PSL rating

A rating can shift when the photograph changes, even if your face has not. A close lens, raised chin, or dark room may alter the features a person or tool can see. Use the same simple setup each time if you want a comparison that means something.

Best angle for a selfie: the short answer

Hold the camera at eye level, at arm's length or farther (from 1.5–2 m with 2x zoom if you can). Face a window, switch off overhead light, relax your jaw with a neutral expression or a very small closed-mouth smile, and use a plain background. A low, close camera is the least flattering setup for almost everyone, whatever their features.

The quick checklist

Set up the camera before worrying about the score. These seven checks make the image easier to read:

• Hold the phone at a comfortable arm's length, straight in front of you at eye level; for extra accuracy, prop it farther away and use the timer.
• Use bright, even light, such as daylight from a window in front of you.
• Keep the camera at eye height and your head level.
• Relax your jaw and use a neutral expression for the main image.
• Remove glasses and hats, and keep hair from covering key features if possible.
• Take one straight-on photo and, if useful, one side profile.
• Turn off filters and beauty effects.

A clean image matters more than an especially flattering angle.

Distance and lens distortion

At very close range, the nose and center of the face sit nearer the lens than the ears and jaw. They can look larger relative to the sides. A normal selfie is taken about 30–40 cm away, and the tool allows for that. If you want the most accurate result, prop the phone a bit farther away on a stable surface and use its timer, which is optional. Crop afterward if needed instead of pushing the lens up to your face.

Keep roughly the same distance for future photos. Changing from a close selfie to a farther portrait can change the apparent proportions enough to make a score comparison misleading. Avoid digital zoom that degrades sharpness; a clear original image gives the tool better landmarks to inspect.

Light that reveals rather than hides

Face a window or another soft, even light source. Strong overhead light makes eye sockets look deeper; side light can exaggerate an asymmetry; direct sun often makes people squint. Dim light may smooth skin texture or create a dramatic jaw shadow while making landmarks harder to see.

You do not need studio equipment. Turn toward the light, check that both eyes are visible, and avoid glare on the face. If one side is in deep shadow, move or wait for more even conditions.

Camera height, head position, and expression

Place the camera at eye level and look toward the lens. A low camera enlarges the chin and nose in the frame, while a high one changes forehead and jaw proportions. Keep your head upright without rolling to either side or lifting the chin to sharpen the jawline.

For the main photo, close your mouth naturally and relax your face. A smile can be a useful second image, but it changes cheeks, eyes, and lower-face contours. A clenched jaw or deliberate squint makes an image harder to compare with an ordinary resting expression.

Clothing and features that block landmarks

Glasses can cover eye corners and brows, and their lenses may change the apparent size of the eyes. Hats, hoods, and hair across the forehead can obscure the hairline or upper face. Remove them for the clearest measurement when you can. Keep makeup and editing consistent if you later compare images.

A plain background helps the face stand out. Make sure the image is sharp and contains only one face. An original photo is preferable to a compressed screenshot, which can hide detail and introduce artifacts.

Front and side photos show different things

The front view shows eye spacing, visible symmetry, and face width. A side view adds context for chin projection, nose profile, and the outline of the lower jaw. The homepage lets you choose Add a side profile with your PSL rating. A side view adds information, but it does not turn a photo rating into a medical assessment.

For the front shot, face the lens squarely with both eyes visible. For the side shot, turn about 90 degrees, keep your head level, and use the same distance and lighting. Move hair away from the camera-side jaw if it blocks the contour. A three-quarter view may look appealing, but it does not replace either standard view for comparison.

Repeat the setup when tracking changes

A useful progress comparison keeps the phone, location, distance, lighting, and expression similar. Take the front and side photos in the same session. If the images differ too much, a change in score could reflect the photograph rather than your appearance.

The tool checks aspects of image quality before a rating, including brightness, sharpness, framing, head angle, and whether more than one face is visible. It can warn you when a photo may be unreliable. A report can also note parts that cannot be judged from the image. Read those limitations before drawing conclusions.

FAQ

How far should the camera be from my face?

Hold the phone at a comfortable arm's length at eye level. Propping it farther away with the timer is optional and can be a little more accurate. Keep the same distance across comparison photos.

Should I smile?

Use a relaxed, neutral expression for the main image. Add a smiling image separately if you want one for your own reference.

Do I need a side view?

It is useful for profile contours that a front view hides. You can add one on the homepage.

Can lighting change a rating?

Yes. Shadows and dimness can hide detail or alter perceived shape, so use bright, even light.